The Chool Bus (ch35)

CHAPTER 35: Lake Charles, Louisiana

After wrapping up in Austin, the Forks made their way over the Atchafalaya Basin Bridge on Interstate Ten heading east toward Lake Charles, Louisiana. And the timing was such that Professor T was able to persuade the rest of the gang to get a super-size portion of wacky fun at the local Pride Fest. The Forks had always identified with fans on the margins, and though Billie was the only member part of the LGBTQ sister/brotherhood, Mork and Jack were extra vigilant to shun homophobic members of the audience and protect her to the best of their ability. In fact, the Forks echoed their favorite grunge star’s revulsion of bigotry in all its forms, adding language in the liner notes of their records addressed directly to individuals…whether racist, sexist, or homophobic…“stay away from our shows and consider buying records from other like-minded assholes.” 

There was the focus-group appointment at McNeese State University, but first, Pride Fest! Jack heard a famous drag show was featured this year and that sounded like something all could enjoy. So the Bus was pointed East and the gang was on schedule. But Mother Nature was on the same road crossing the Atchafalaya Bridge as well. Nearly twenty miles of bayau-crossing, with nowhere to pull over. A white-knuckle drive for Billie as the torrential downpour had reduced reasonable and prudent travel down to forty miles per hour and slower. Of course, Billie had seen this kind of condition before in the Oregon canopy forests, but this time, it was a bridge with no escape whatever…you just gotta keep moving.

“A shame we can’t see out the windows,” Jack was unfazed. “Nothing but Louisiana bayou and Cajun swamp over there…you just know those gators are licking their chops for someone to tumble over the edge.”

“Not funny,” said Buck from the passenger seat. He was right there, white-knuckling it with Billie.

Professor T was engrossed in the task of compiling the Austin focus-group data through the sound of buckets being dumped on the roof of the bus. “C’mon, Jack. Give Billie some credit. She knows when to flip the hazard switch…we’ll be fine.”

The rain persisted long after clearing the near twenty mile span of the bridge, subsiding a bit only when entering the outskirts of Lake Charles. After checking in at the university, the gang set their sights on attending Pride Fest, making sure not to miss the famous Drag Show.

“I don’t know anything about drag-shows,” Billie was surprised at Buck’s stereotyping. “I mean, just because you were raised on a Texas ranch, i don’t assume you know whether John Wayne was the real deal or did he have stunt-men to do his rough-riding for him.”

“Sorry about that,” Buck was contrite. “But yeah, i know all about The Duke’s primary stunt-double. His name was Chuck Roberson. He passed in 1988. It was a sad day for my dad as they were often in the same places at the same time. Roberson grew up on a ranch near Roswell, New Mexico, and started his cowboy career at age thirteen, working as a cowhand and oilfield roughneck. He was a World War II vet, and worked as a police officer after being discharged. So yeah, sometimes stereotypes are accurate.” 

Billie just kept her eyes forward and let out an amused chuckle. “I can’t wait to see how you respond to the drag-show,” said Billie. “Hopefully not ALL cowboy stereotypes are true.”

Now, this exchange left Buck a bit on the back heel, so after the McNeese interviews and the famous Pride Fest/Drag Show, Buck spent the trip to Mississippi in the back of the bus putting his cowboy poetry talents to good use. That is, to make up with Billie with an ode to the Drag Show:

Well, the campfire is bound to flicker out soon,
The coyotes are out there howlin’ at the moon.
Time to kick off the boots, and pour a finger of rye,
And settle in ’neath the wide western sky.
Now, i ain’t much for glitter, ain’t much for style,
I’m a dusty old cow-poke… come sit for a while.
Cause there’s a stampede of glam, and spice, and sauce,
Run by a buxom earth-bound angel callin’ the shots.

They call ’em the queens, and they’re tough as rawhide,
With lashes like sashes and a whole lot of pride.
They’re ropin’ the sequins and rhinestoned high heels,
And blush on their face to show how they feel.
When it’s time for the runway, they strut and they pose,
Like prize-winning stallions to win or to show.
They cinch up their corsets like a well-fitted girth,
The fiercest dern showgirls on Dolly’s green earth.

And there she sits on the judge’s high seat,
Watchin’ ’em throw down their moves to the beat.
If a cowboy gets bucked, he dusts off his pants,
But now, the glamour skill gonna save their last chance.
It’s a duel at high noon, without any guns,
Bust moves on the catwalk ’til the battle is won.
Then Dolly calls it, fair, steady and brave:
“Sashay away,” or “Whitney, you stay.”

So here’s to the queens of the Drag Race corral,
You don’t need a bull-whip to be a tough gal.
It takes grit to be glamorous, guts to be bold,
A truth that this weary old ranch-hand holds.
Keep sportin’ your pasties and be what you are,
‘Cause every last one of you struts like a star.
I’ll tip my old Stetson and turn out the light,
And wish all the drag-queens a victorious night.

Turns out, Dolly herowndamnself was a contestant at a different drag-show, and what do you know? She lost… now that takes some serious chutzpah, and like Angel Dolly herself would say, “it takes a lot of money to look this cheap.” 

“Bless her,” said Buck. “A true goddess in our midst. I’ve spent my life looking up to her as a saint among mortals. Knowing she accepts all walks of life just reenforces my respect for her.”

NEXT WEEK:
Vicksburg Mississippi

GO BACK => Preface and Chapter Links

This Land: Tennessee

Ok… there we were… Memphis, TN… home of Graceland and, if we may be so bold, some of the worst highways and city roads poor Rocinante had been forced to endure on this tour. We didn’t hit a tire killer, but that’s only because Ronnie practices hypervigilance when traveling Tennessee roads. Read, he’d seen this show before… he came prepared. That said, we had a super pleasant stay in Memphis. Not all of the roads were peppered with tank-traps. For example, the eastside Germantown area is quite nice. It reminded Ronnie of some of those old money neighborhoods in Kansas City. Anyway, on laundry day, waiting for machines to do their business, Ronnie struck up a conversation with one of the patrons. We’ll refer to him as Ronnie’s “laundromat companion” (LC). After some brief introductory exchanges, Ronnie’s LC launched into a string of Music Biz-related anecdotes, slightly embellished below.

Turns out, Ronnie’s LC is from old money, himself, but chose a vagabond’s life over joining the family business. He struck out on his own doing various music-biz functionary tasks, traveling the world with this band or that. In the process, got to meet and work with quite a few of the stars most of us only see in the tabloids or on stages. Now, Ronnie wasn’t about to let this opportunity pass so, with encouraging nods and mostly closed mouth (don’t laugh), he took it all in.

“Well, now, let me tell you, Ronnie,” he said. “Tennessee’s music scene ain’t just fiddles and steel guitars. It’s a regular circus, i tell ya. A regular menagerie of the peculiar.”

“First off, there’s Elvis, ‘The Kang’ himself.” At this point, Ronnie couldn’t believe his luck, and this LC raconteur was just getting warmed up. “Now, you’d think a man with that much hip-swivelin’ talent would have the good sense to get himself a pup, like any respectable fella. But no, sir,” LC was on a roll. “Elvis, flush with his first taste of fame, decided he needed a monkey. And not just any monkey, mind you, but a spider monkey.” Ronnie nodded, having heard this particular story before. However, LC wasn’t done. “Then, as that wasn’t enough monkeyshine, he brought home a moonshine-swilling chimpanzee he called Scatter, a ‘coconut-headed little mother fucker,’ as Elvis would call him. Imagine the chaos! I reckon those critters saw more booze than a saloon floor on a Saturday night.” Ronnie agreed, anxious to hear more.

“Then there’s the Ryman Auditorium, that grand old cathedral of country music. Built by a man of the same name, who, they say, still wanders the halls like a lost gospel tune. Folks swear they hear noises, see lights flicker, and some even claim Hank Williams Sr. is still there, singin’ his lonesome tunes.” Ronne offered a lame missive, “Maybe he’s just lookin’ for a decent after-life honky-tonk.” Ronnie’s LC winked and carried on.

“And speaking of lonesome tunes,” LC’s segues were tight, as if he had had plenty of experience providing soundbites to interviewers, which by some cosmic synchronicity happened to be a skill Ronnie had honed in his working life as an electronic-media educator. “It’s all in the eyes,” Ronnie might say. LC continued, “…there’s Willie Nelson. Now, Willie, bless his edible cannaboid heart. He’s a man who appreciates the finer things in life, like… well.” He winked again. A friendly sort of ‘know what i mean?’ way.

Ronnie was keeping up without too much trouble. And since Tennessee doesn’t have legal weed for recreation, there was no talk of sharing a toke. Anyway, LC picked up where he left off, “Willie even claims he lit up a joint on the roof of the White House during Jimmy Carter’s time, the 1970s. On the roof! I tell you, that’s bolder than a bullfrog in a teacup.” Ronnie nodded. “Snoop Dogg, take notes,” Ronnie was warming up to this fella.

“Now, don’t go thinkin’ these music stars live a life of pure luxury,” LC continued. “Johnny Paycheck, of ‘Take This Job and Shove It’ fame, proved that wrong. He stopped for a drink on his way to see his mama, and some fella recognized him. Invited him for deer meat and turtle soup, which, to be fair, sounds like a dish straight out of a Ma and Pa Kettle episode.” Ronnie chuckled and LC took a sip of his soda. “Well, Johnny, he wasn’t havin’ it. He pulled a gun and asked the fella if he looked like a ‘country hick,’ then let a round fly, grazing the poor yokel’s scalp.” Ronnie was astonished, he hadn’t heard this one before. LC continued. “Nine years they gave him, but they let him out early. Seems the judge could appreciate a rare talent when he saw one.”

At this point LC and Ronnie had to move their respective laundry from washers to dryers. But once the tumbling got underway, the stories resumed. Ronnie remembered LC had mentioned working for George Jones at one point, so he encouraged LC to expand on that. “Now, i called George Jones, the ‘lawnmower man,’ LC began. I called him that because his wife, bless her drunk-wranglin’ heart, tried to keep him away from the bottle by hidin’ his car keys. Too bad she forgot about the lawnmower.” This sounded familiar to Ronnie, but he thought is was about someone else. Anyway, LC went on. “A ten horsepower rotary engine riding mower. He rode that thing all the way to Beaumont, Texas, 16ish miles.” Ronnie glanced at the tumbling laundry. This sure was more exciting than watching clothes dry. “Now that’s that’s dedication,” Ronnie said.

On the laundromat’s TV, a feature about T-Bone Burnett and his soundtrack for the Coen Brothers movie, “Oh Brother Where Art Thou” was on and that reminded LC of a Bill Monroe anecdote. “Mr. Monroe, the father of bluegrass, a devout man, mind you. But even saints have their limits. He got himself arrested for hittin’ his ex-girlfriend with a bible. The word of God! And then, they let him go.” Ronnie sighed, “That’s taking bible thumpin’ to a new level,” joking. Ronnie’s LC chuckled. “I recon you got that right.”

As the dryers’ time grew short, Ronnie’s LC wrangled up one more wild Tennessee music biz anecdote. This one for for the ladies. “Sweet Dolly,” Ronnie’s LC drawled on. “Now, she’s a queen, no doubt about it. But even queens can be out-queened. She entered herself in a Dolly drag contest in Santa Barbara, and lost!”

“W-what,” Ronnie couldn’t believe what he was hearing!? “That’s right, she made her hair bigger, her eyes bigger, her beauty mark bigger, everything bigger, and still lost,” Ronnie’s LC said. She said she had gotten the least applause.” LC shrugged, “I reckon that’s the kind of humility you only find in a true legend.”

And with that, Ronnie and his LC had clothes to fold. Once finished, they bid fare well and went their separate ways. And, there you have it, loopers. A little slice of Tennessee’s musical madness. It ain’t always pretty, but it’s always entertaining.

Onward through the fog… Rohlfie

Keep your eyes peeled…
Drivin’ through Memphis…
The potholes deadly…
Will break your senses…
But take a moment…
To offer reverence…
Music is born in Tennessee.