travel

This Land – Alabama

Ok, alright. According to some feedback received from early Hot Springs or Busk dispatches, travel blogs are a dime a dozen. People don’t want more words belaboring the obvious or redundant. Instead, some have suggested we try something compelling and original from these observations and meditations. And now, as we emerge from the 2024-25 deep freeze in balmy South Florida, it’s time to reboot HSoB along the southern coast in the heart of Dixie. After that, when Spring really takes off, we’ll travel up the Eastern Seaboard in the search of ghosts, poets, and visionaries.

Now, we sincerely apologize for those snoozy dispatches of Hot Springs or Busk Phases I, II, and III (West and Midwestern states). Once a better modus-operandi is developed, maybe we’ll revisit them. Seriously, WA, OR, and CA literally gave Rohlfie the creeps with NO due justice done to those feelings. Anyway, at least for now, the new angle is STATE NAME: Take a Walk on the Wild Side. We’re gonna string, like pearls, stories from each state, all the while honing and fine-tuning our voice. Boring is not allowed. “Ecstatic truth” is the aim. But as Werner Herzog has already shown, details might come in fuzzy or even somewhat inaccurate. As long as deeper truths are captured, the details can go to the Devil. And so…

Without further adieu, This Land: Alabama

We landed in Foley en-route to Mobile. Our boondocker‘s workflow required landing somewhere close to an urban center large enough for a Planet Fitness without frustrating traffic snarls, but small enough to function at a pace suitable for wayfaring senior citizens. Foley, AL is perfect! Less than 50 miles from Mobile with all necessary accommodations located along a single boulevard. Once settled and underway, we met some nice folks at the library and the nearby dog park.

And the stories… well…

For instance, this one fella, a sort of silver-haired gent told us he’d seen a Sasquatch stomping around Conecuh County. “A hairy beast hollerin’ and crossin’ roads like he’s late for supper,” he said. “Back in my day, we had ‘possums, maybe a bear. Now folks are scared,” he winked. “He’s prob’ly just lookin’ for a decent sweet potato pie.”

I asked him if anyone had a clear photo to be sure it wasn’t just Florida Man paying a visit to some Alabama relatives. “No sah,” he said giving his glasses a wipe-down. “But my neighbors smartass teenager created a deep fake of the one they think they saw.” He handed me a photo from his wallet. “I know there’s probably no real bigfoot, but it gives the boys at the donut shop something to gossip about.” He slipped the photo back into his wallet, took off his hat, and wiped his forehead with a handkerchief.

“Then there’s them boomin’ noises,” he said. “Like the sky’s got the hiccups.” He tried to describe the scope of his neighbors’ concern. “Mountain Brook to Arab, everyone’s hearin’ it. Folks tweetin’ James Spann like he’s got the answers to the universe.” He paused a moment to take a tennis ball out of his dog’s mouth and throw it several yards. “Even NASA’s scratchin’ their heads. They say they don’t know. Don’t know! Used to be, if you didn’t know somethin’, you’d just say, ‘Must be thunder.’ Now, it’s a mystery for the ages.”

“And speakin’ of mysteries,” he continued. “This lawyer fella got tossed from his own church. On Easter! Over a court order.” He flashed a wide-eyed expression of surprise. “Seems the Lord’s house ain’t a sanctuary from ex-wives or security guards. Banned from all 15 campuses! That’s a powerful ban, ain’t it?” I nodded. “Used to be, church was for repentin’. Now, it’s for keepin’ folks out.” I agreed, “I guess that’s taking restraining order to a new level,” i said.

I took a sip of coffee and decided to stay with this interesting fellow a while longer. He went on entertaining his energetic beagle with the ball, silent for a moment. After a brief tussle with the dog, he threw the ball and cleared his throat. “Then there’s the fella mauled by a trained emotional support dog.” With a furrowed brow he said. “On a plane!” After a brief pause he continued, “now, i knew these animals were becoming more common at airports. But don’t they have certain standards for training before venturing out there in the world with a mission of calming some poor soul’s jangled nerves?” I shrugged. “Used to be,” he said, “a dog was for huntin’ or guardin’. Now, they’re givin’ folks emotional support and bitin’ peoples’ faces off?” “Wa-what?” I asked, finally waking up to the implications. “This emotional support dog mauled another passenger on the plane?” “Yup,” he replied. “And Delta’s got to deal with it. Times have changed, i reckon,” he said with a grimace. “That’s certainly one way to put it.” i said.

“And speaking of wild animals,” he said. “This Cullman woman, stompin’ through a windshield. Did you see that computer video? They tell me these short video clips spread like viruses.” “Yes,” i said. “That lady is a stone cold badass.” He gave me a quizzical look and said, “ok, well, she said she prayed about it, knew it was wrong, and did it anyway.” “You don’t say,” i mused with a chuckle. “That’s… that’s a new level of logic, ain’t it? Used to be, prayin’ was for askin’ for forgiveness after you did somethin’ foolish. Now, it’s a post-action justification.” I laughed so hard i had to wipe a tear from the corner of my eye. “She might have started a trend,” i said.

The beagle was finally tired of chasing the ball and started doing that circle dance that generally comes before plopping down for a doggy break. “Lordy Lord, what a world.” my new companion said. “It’s enough to make a ghost shake his head. Used to be, life was simple. Now, it’s Sasquatch, mysterious booming, church bans, and emotional support attack dogs. I reckon i’ll just keep on keepin’ on and watchin’ the world go round with ol’ Sparky.”

I thanked him for the conversation, we bid fare well, and went our separate ways. He and Sparky to their home. Rohlfie, Ronnie Hays, and i back to good ‘ol Rocinante for some breakfast gruel before heading to the library to get all of this down while it was fresh in the ‘ol memory banks. Next stop, Mississippi!

Onward through the fog… RH

In Conecuh County…
They have a Sasquatch…
Mountain Brook booms…
When sky gods hiccup…
Best be kind in…
Romantic breakups…
Alabama girls will…
Kick your glass!

This Land: Florida (part II)

Ok… confession time...

Ronnie thought, since we were pressed for time, we could get by with only one Florida post. So we took a shortcut, leaning on Ronnie’s memories of Florida. A bit dusty, those memories, like faded postcards from a bygone era. Back when Daytona Beach was the epicenter of spring break bacchanalia, before the revelers migrated to Panama City, seeking new shores for their timeless rituals.

But then, waking from an overnight stay in Tallahassee enroute to Mobile, AL, Ronnie opened his news feed to reports of Ol’ Man Winter reaching tentacles into his Midwest stomping grounds. This awakened a realization. Specifically, the point of this tour was to avoid any and all extreme weather, a comfort priority for van-life vagabonds.

Ah, but there’s the rub. In this digital age, consistency is king. To vanish for weeks is to be forgotten, swallowed by the insatiable maw of the internet. So, we stay. Florida, it seems, is too vast to be consumed in a single bite. There’s plenty to see, do, and write about as Ronnie has no plans for leaving till it warms up a bit up North.

Now, for geography-minded loopers, Tallahassee is in the panhandle, East of St. Augustine, our first Florida stop. Well, that’s in the North, and we needed to be heading South, waaayyy south, in order to avoid all hints of Ol’ Man Winter. So… yea… we had to backtrack a bit, but now heading in the right direction. Spring Hill was the first stop enroute to Key West, all the while hoping for the best for our friends and family up North.

Anyway, it turns out, Ronnie’s plan to visit all 48 contiguous US states in a rolling studio apartment christened “Rocinante” has been done (and published to some acclaim), more than once. The Steinbeck version literally featured a tricked out pickup truck named… Rocinante. Now, more confessions. Ronnie was not aware of Steinbeck’s “Travels with Charlie” before 2024. And Heat-Moon’s “Blue Highways” was only a back-of-the-mind inspiration for Ronnie’s 5th music album of the same name. Truth told, he had not read Heat-Moon’s volume till hitting the road on our Hot Springs or Busk tour.

Actually, the inspiration for naming our van Rocinante came from the Netflix series, “The Expanse“. A multi-season series that delves into a rich tapestry of philosophical themes. Just a few examples would include social inequality, with vast disparities between the “Inner Planets” (Earth and Mars), the “Kuiper Belt,” and the outer colonies. Inequality that fuels conflict and raises questions about resource distribution, social justice, and the exploitation of marginalized groups. Sound familiar? Another theme explored by the series is the nature of humanity. The Expanse explores what it fundamentally means to be human. It questions whether our nature is inherently good or evil, and how we might evolve or adapt in the face of the unknown.

These are just a couple of the many themes explored by the series. Ronnie has seen the whole thing twice, he’ll probably watch it again cursing the numbskulls who canceled it. This is not to downplay the influences of Heat-Moon or Steinbeck’s road trip meditations. Both are masterful explorations of the hopes, dreams, and unique character of the people encountered off the “beaten paths” as it were. Heat-Moon called those back roads “Blue Highways” because of how they appeared in road atlas’ of the day. In Travels with Charlie, Nobel laureate, John Steinbeck makes a point of staying off the busiest highways in order to get the raw scoop from the people inhabiting the countryside. Both works chocked full of detailed dialog sequences from those encounters in diners and rest stops.

Ronnie, in contrast, is coming from a different angle. More an inner exploration, sharing windshield time with audio versions of Steinbeck, Camus, Dostoevsky, and Dickens’ takes on these universal themes with showers, meals, and sleep cycles provided by Cracker Barrel, and Planet Fitness.

And what does any of this have to do with Florida…? For those attuned to current events, these human challenges are alive and well here, as they are nation wide, but with Florida, the examples are much louder and prouder (think “Florida Man“). For example, Florida faces significant environmental threats, including rising sea levels, increasingly severe hurricanes, and the degradation of crucial ecosystems. These issues are exacerbated by rapid development and a history of prioritizing short-term economic gains over long-term sustainability. Environmental issues often become politicized, with disagreements over the role of government regulation and the balance between economic development and environmental protection.

As for Tribalism and Prejudice, Florida, like many places, grapples with historical and ongoing issues of racism, discrimination, and social inequality. These issues often manifest in disparities in education, healthcare, and economic opportunity. Sad but true, minority communities often face systemic barriers, and tensions with law enforcement. They also face incidents of racial profiling and police brutality which contribute to mistrust. Political rhetoric and divisive language and policies can aggravate existing divisions… and these days, politicians are saying the quiet parts out loud and proud.

And Florida’s leadership has a mixed record on these issues. While some initiatives promote environmental protection and social justice, others have been criticized for intensifying existing problems.

Yea… challenges… but until Greenland melts, Florida has some of the most bodacious beaches in the world. Come see it while you can. We’ll be here at least till Ol’ Man Winter retreats back to where he belongs.

Onward through the fog… RH

From Saint Auggy……
To Tallahassee…
You’ll see the fire ants..
Prolificacy…
And like the bears in…
Yellowstone grassy…
Don’t look FL Man in the eye.

This Land: Georgia

We’re holed up in a backwoods Georgia ranch, a relic of the Old South, guests of generous kin. Ronnie Hays is nursing a hangover from a Thanksgiving feast that would make a Kentucky Colonel blush. The pièce de résistance? Peanut butter pie!? Yeah, you heard right. A peanut butter pie. Only in the Peach State, where they grow enough peanuts to choke an elephant.

Rocinante, our trusty mount, was overdue for a shoe’n. New rubber, wheel covers, the whole nine yards. And while she rested, Ronnie busied himself working his chops and scribbling lyrics, trying to channel some cosmic inspiration. But the real question was whether the music gods would smile on us and grant a spot at South by Southwest. Only time, and a lot of caffeine, would tell. And if not, oh well, we were able to get a tour the Allman Brothers’ Big House museum. Now… we could go on and on about the rich and enduring musical legacy born in the great state of Georgia and it’s quite a list. But, for Ronnie’s money, the big bang was right here in this Macon Georgia Big House and the Allman Brothers Band.

Meanwhile, the Deep South has been a mixed bag weather-wise. We’ve had more cold snaps than a polar bear’s dream. Ronnie’s been wrapped tight in his mummy bag, snug as a bug in a rug. The propane heater, our only salvation, has been a fickle mistress. We’ve had a few close calls with insomnia and claustrophobia. But hey, that’s the price you pay for van life, right?

So, here we sit, waiting for the next chapter to unfold. Whether it’s a sunny beach in Florida or a frozen swamp in Louisiana, we’re ready to ride. Or at least, we’ll be ready once we figure out how to keep this damn propane tank full.

Anyway, Georgia, a state of contradictions, a tapestry woven with threads of beauty and blight. A place where the sweet tea flows as freely as the sweat during a humid summer day. A land of gentle giants and fiery tempers, where the past echoes in the present, and the future remains uncertain.

Unfortunately, Georgia’s wonders don’t include naturally occurring, publicly accessible hot springs. It’s a cruel twist of fate, a geological oversight. But fear not, for relief can be found just a short drive away in the neighboring states of North Carolina and Tennessee, where bubbling hot springs beckon weary travelers.

While Georgia may lack geothermal wonders, it more than makes up for it in intellectual capital. The state boasts a diverse range of colleges and universities, each a beacon of knowledge and aspiration. From the serene campuses of Agnes Scott College and Berry College to the bustling urban centers of Emory University and Georgia College & State University, Georgia offers a wealth of educational opportunities.

And let’s not forget the literary giants who have graced Georgia’s soil. Flannery O’Connor’s childhood home in Savannah, a relic of the past, whispers tales of the South’s gothic heart. Margaret Mitchell’s birthplace in Atlanta, a city of dreams and disillusionment, echoes with the romantic saga of Scarlett O’Hara. The poet Sidney Lanier’s home in Macon, a quiet sanctuary of the soul, still resounds with the rhythms of his verse. And Savannah, a city steeped in history and haunted by the ghosts of the past, offers a literary pilgrimage for those seeking inspiration.

THE GOOD: Georgia, a land of natural beauty, where the coastal marshes reflect the sky and the Appalachian Mountains commune with the clouds. A place where the gentle rolling hills of the Piedmont Plateau cradle the soul. And the people! Warm and welcoming, they’ll make you feel right at home, even if you’re a stranger in a strange land.

The cost of living, a gentle breeze compared to the hurricane of other states. Affordable housing, reasonable taxes, and a laid-back lifestyle. It’s a place where dreams can take root and grow. And the job market, a bustling metropolis of opportunity, offering a diverse range of careers in technology, healthcare, and logistics.

The food, a symphony of flavors, a culinary masterpiece. From the classic Southern comfort food to the innovative fusion dishes, Georgia’s dining scene is a feast for the senses. And the natural wonders, a breathtaking spectacle. Amicalola Falls, a cascade of crystal-clear water, plunges into the depths, a testament to nature’s raw power.

THE BAD: But like all earthly paradises, Georgia has its flaws. Atlanta, a city of ambition and aspiration, is also a city of traffic congestion. A daily gridlock that can test the patience of even the most saintly commuter. And the summer heat, a relentless force that can turn even the most temperate individual into a sweaty, irritable mess.

THE UGLY: There’s a political divide that cleaves the state in two. A battleground of ideologies, a clash of cultures, a constant source of tension and turmoil.

Yet, despite its challenges, Georgia has produced some of the greatest minds and talents the world has ever known. Martin Luther King Jr., a beacon of hope in a world of darkness. Jimmy Carter, a man of peace and integrity. Hank Aaron, a baseball legend who broke barriers and shattered records. Maya Angelou, a poet and civil rights activist whose words continue to inspire. And Tyler Perry, a filmmaker and entrepreneur who has shattered stereotypes and defied expectations.

So, there you have it, Georgia: a state of contrasts, a land of beauty and frustration, a place where the past, present, and future collide in a chaotic, beautiful, and often baffling mix.

Onward through the fog… RH

In the Peach State…
You find a full slate…
You see at winter’s gate…
You’ll need a warm plate…
Screw up your Zen State…
For Atlanta freeways…
And don’t forget…
The peanut butter pie.

This Land: Arkansas

Arkansas, the Natural State, is a curious juxtaposition of backwoods charm and surprising sophistication. It’s a place where towering pines meet sprawling Walmart parking lots, and where the echoes of Johnny Cash’s mournful baritone mingle with the twang of a bluegrass dobro.

Here are a few impressions as we ease into Hot Springs or Busk, Phase IV:

THE GOOD: Arkansas is home to several natural hot springs, many of which are open to the public. The most famous is Hot Springs National Park, which features 47 naturally occurring springs. Other notables include those found in the Ouachita Mountains and the Ozarks. Arkansas has a rich cultural history as well, with several famous landmarks. These include the boyhood home of Johnny Cash in Kingsland, the birthplace of Al Green in Forest City, and Billy Bob Thornton, born right there in Hot Springs.

For outdoor enthusiasts, Arkansas features mountains, forests, lakes, and rivers. The Ozark Mountains and the Ouachita Mountains are particularly popular for hiking, camping, and fishing. The Buffalo National River is widely regarded as the state’s best natural sightseeing location. This scenic river is renowned for kayaking, canoeing, fishing, and hiking.

As for the cost of living. Arkansas is generally lower than the national average, making it attractive for families and retirees, residents are known for their warm and welcoming hospitality. A big plus is the rich culinary tradition, with dishes like barbecue, catfish, and fried pies. Arkansas cuisine is a hearty affair that will satisfy even the most discerning palate. And don’t forget the sweet tea, a beverage so beloved by Arkansans that it’s practically a religion.

Arkansans are a hearty breed, known for their hospitality and their dry wit. They’ll welcome you with open arms, but don’t be surprised if they also give you a sideways glance and a knowing smirk. It’s a state where folksy wisdom and modern cynicism coexist.

As for famous Figures, there is quite a list: Bill Clinton, Johnny Cash, Levon Helm, Glen Campbell, Douglas MacArthur, John Grisham, Mary Steenburgen, and many more.

THE BAD: Arkansas has one of the lowest education attainment rates in the country, access to quality healthcare can be limited in some parts of the state, and the state’s infrastructure, particularly its roads and bridges, is in need of improvement. The state is a patchwork quilt of contradictions. It’s home to the serene beauty of the Ozarks and the eerie allure of Hot Springs National Park, a place where time seems to slow down and the earth itself steams. Yet, it’s also a place where poverty and opportunity often clash, a place where the past clings to the present. While the state’s natural beauty is undeniable, its infrastructure can be a bit of a rollercoaster ride. The roads, especially in the rural areas, can be as winding and unpredictable as a post-pandemic general election. But hey, that’s part of the charm, right?

THE UGLY: While Ronnie & Rocinante noted a fairly easy trek through the urban centers of Little Rock and North Little Rock, there are plenty of snags due to ongoing road construction. That said, less populated areas of the state can suffer from limited resources to health care, education, and infrastructure. This reminds us of a song found in the Harry Smith collection of American folk music. A ditty called “My Name is John Johanna” sometimes known as “The State of Arkansas”. The song tells the story of an unfortunate young man who finds himself appalled at the living and working conditions in Arkansas. The state of Arkansas was admitted to the Union in 1836. This song draws on fairly typical frontier stereotypes, Arkansas being a largely untamed wilderness during the mid-19th century.

My name is John Johanna, i came from Buffalo town. For nine long years i’ve traveled this wide wide world around. Through ups and downs and miseries and some good days i saw, But i never knew what misery was ’til i went to Arkansas.

To be fair, conditions in Arkansas are significantly improved since the 19th Century. Ronnie has family from the state and they are doing quite well. But, as earlier indicated, there are still areas for improvement. Even though many in the urban centers are enjoying upper-middle class to straight up opulent conditions for modest prices as compared to states like California, New York, or Washington State.

So, if you’re looking for a place where the ordinary meets the extraordinary, where the past and the present collide, then Arkansas might just be the place for you… Its natural beauty, affordable living, and friendly people make it an attractive place to live, work, and visit. However, the state also faces challenges in areas like education, healthcare, and infrastructure.

Onward through the fog… RH

You got your good days…
You have your bad days…
In Arkansas…
You found your getaway…
From the bubblin’ hot springs…
To winding country roads…
Life here is ah la Natural.

This Land: Oklahoma

Oklahoma, the Sooner State, is a land where the contrasts are as stark as a prairie sunset against a storm-laden sky. It’s a place where the Wild West still whispers in the wind, where oil gushes beneath the earth, and where Dust Bowl ghosts haunt the plains.

Imagine a state that birthed the Black Wall Street, a testament to Black prosperity, only to see it crushed by the racist fury of a mob. Yet, today, it’s a tapestry woven with threads of Native American heritage, African American resilience, and the hopeful dreams of countless immigrants.

THE GOOD: There’s the soothing embrace of hot springs, including the Chickasaw National Recreation Area in the foothills of the Arbuckle Mountains; the intellectual rigor of some of the nation’s top-rated universities, including Northeastern State, Rogers State, and Southwestern Oklahoma State; literary landmarks, including the Will Rogers Memorial Museum in Claremore, the Oklahoma City National Memorial, and the Oklahoma Historical Society whispering tales of the past. Finally, the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge is widely regarded as one of the most stunning natural areas in Oklahoma, offering breathtaking scenery, including mountains, prairies, and wildlife.

By Dcheagle - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=43130143

Sooners are also known for their warm hospitality and friendly demeanor. Though the Texas caveat applies to the “Bless your Heart” expression. That phrase can cut either, or both ways. Another positive for Oklahoma is their affordable cost of living. Compared to many other states, Oklahoma is relatively affordable. As well, Oklahoma has a rich Native American heritage celebrated through various cultural events and attractions.

THE BAD: Oklahoma is prone to extreme weather conditions, including tornadoes, droughts, and heat waves; Oklahoma’s economy is heavily reliant on the energy sector, which can be vulnerable to fluctuations in oil and gas prices; some areas of Oklahoma have higher crime rates than others; in some parts of the state, there may be limited job opportunities.

THE UGLY: Oklahoma has been described as a “prison capital”, in the upper 90% incarceration rate of any US state, and by comparison, higher than the incarceration rates of any country in the world, El Salvador excluded. Many of them, women. In a 2023 report, The Sentencing Project highlighted Oklahoma’s “Failure to Protect” law, resulting in survivors of abuse facing longer sentences for allegedly failing to protect their children from harm more than the person who committed the abuse. Talk about Orange being the New Black.

Oklahoma is a land of extremes. Tornadoes dance across the sky, droughts parch the earth, and the heat can feel like a furnace. Its economy, tied to the volatile world of oil and gas, can boom and bust like a gambler’s fortune. And then there’s the ugly truth: Oklahoma is in the upper percentile for incarceration, a place where justice often seems race and gender biased. Yet, from this crucible of contrasts, Oklahoma has forged a unique identity. It’s a land of country music legends, baseball heroes, and story tellers who have shaped the nation. It’s a place where the past and the present collide, where hope and despair intertwine, and where the human spirit endures.

By U.S. Department of State from United States - Secretary Blinken Delivers Remarks at the Kennedy Center Honors Dinner, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=126371340

By UPI - https://www.ebay.com/itm/173853206861, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=110587018

Overall, despite it’s checkered and tragic past, Oklahoma is a state with a lot to offer. While it still has its challenges, it also boasts a vibrant culture, natural beauty, and a friendly atmosphere.

Onward through the fog… R.H.

Tornado Alley…
And the Bible Belt…
Oklahoma…
A culture smelt…
A land of contrasts…
A land of joy and pain…
This land…
Gave us Woody G.

This Land: New Mexico

So… planning for the Arizona visit, we acquired gear for Grand Canyon hiking: waffle stompers, wicking shirts, loose shorts, and a camelbackpack for emergency provisions. Also, we did some cursory research looking for a moderate difficulty day-hike, instructions on how to get to the trailhead, and a checklist of what to expect.

The plan was to do the hike, write the Arizona post in the Flagstaff mall food court. After that, give the Colorado Springs peeps a heads up as we were planning to head back to Hays via Grand Junction, Colorado Springs, then the home stretch, with Hays arrival in the last week of October.

Well… as they say about the best laid plans… some minor changes and a couple lessons learned:

LESSON #1: It became apparent the Flagstaff mall was not going to allow overnight parking, so we did some Flagstaff-specific Googlin’ and discovered the wonders of Cracker Barrel. A bit off the beaten path, but OMG, Boondocker’s heaven. We did kinda know that already, but wow, so nice to be able to sleep assured the 2:00am parking lot security knock wasn’t coming. As a gesture of gratitude, we made a point to patronize their business leading to another OMG moment. Cracker Barrel is the MASTER of “comfort food.” And there we have it, another option for 24/5 PF towns.

LESSON #2: The Fila waffle stompers turned out to be stealth “cruel shoes”. He kinda got that notion on the Grand Canyon “Bright Angel” hike, but it all came crashing into awareness like the Kool Aid man on the New Mexico hike. Oh, by the way, the itinerary changed, slightly. We took a detour to New Mexico before heading back to Colorado. Once landing in Albuquerque, we decided to take on an intermediate trail (Embudito) and take it all the way to the peak summit. Did we make it? Hell to the no. Did we give it the ol’ college try? Sure, and this is where Ronnie FIRED the Filas. His pinky toes, both of them, were screaming for 6 of the 8 miles we managed to cover. But no shame… it was a semi-challenging hike, and toward the end, Ronnie’s knees (those whiny little punks) were singing harmony with the pinky toes. He resolved to engage the shoe experts at REI in order to replace the cruel shoes with trail hikers a little less inclined to torture the wearer. We’ll see, but not today… still recovering.

Anyway… New Mexico, a state known for its stunning landscapes, rich history, and vibrant culture, offers a unique blend of experiences.

THE GOOD: New Mexico is home to numerous natural hot springs, many of which are publicly accessible. Some of the most popular include Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs, Ten Thousand Waves, and Gila Hot Springs. These geothermal wonders offer relaxation, rejuvenation, and therapeutic benefits. As for higher learning, NM boasts several excellent small to medium-sized colleges, providing quality education and a more intimate learning environment. New Mexico also has a rich literary heritage, with several famous authors and literary landmarks. Georgia O’Keeffe Museum in Santa Fe is a must-visit for art enthusiasts, and the Bandelier National Monument, where author D.H. Lawrence once lived, offers a glimpse into the region’s history and natural beauty.

THE SUPER GOOD: New Mexico is widely praised for its diverse landscapes, including the majestic Rocky Mountains, the arid deserts, and the enchanting forests. The state’s rich cultural heritage, influenced by Native American, Spanish, and Mexican traditions, is also a major draw. Additionally, New Mexico’s friendly and welcoming people, as well as its affordable cost of living, make it an attractive place to live and visit. For example, Carlsbad Caverns National Park is an underground wonderland featuring a vast network of interconnected caves, including the iconic Giant Dome, which is one of the largest stalactite formations in the world. And New Mexico has produced many famous figures throughout history, including artists Georgia O’Keeffe and Billy the Kid. Other notable individuals include author D.H. Lawrence, scientist Albert Einstein, and astronaut Neil Armstrong.

THE BAD & UGLY: Isolation, some parts of New Mexico can be remote, with limited access to amenities and services. This isolation can be a challenge for those seeking a more urban lifestyle. As for the weather, New Mexico enjoys a pleasant climate for most of the year. That said, the state can experience extreme weather conditions, including hot summers and cold winters. Additionally, the state is prone to droughts and wildfires.

And the economy? New Mexico’s economy has historically faced challenges, with a reliance on industries such as oil and gas, tourism, and government. The state has been working to diversify its economy and create more job opportunities. Overall, New Mexico offers a unique and rewarding experience for those seeking adventure, culture, and natural beauty. While the state has its challenges, its many positive aspects make it a desirable place to live and visit.

Onward through the fog… R.H.

You got those speed bumps…
In Albuquerque…
They sneak up on you…
And you’re a turkey…
But please remember…
Browsing Taos Galleries…
Sometimes a rose is just a rose.

This Land: Arizona

Arizona is a diverse state with a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and modern amenities. Ronnie’s personal history with the state is mixed. There’s driving through the state to get to California, there’s a semi-regrettable period in his professional life where he was tasked to help establish a new branch office of architects and engineers for the firm he was working for in the early 2000s. And finally, there’s his October, 2024 trip to the awe-inspiring Grand Canyon.

Now, Ronnie wasn’t new to arranging IT resources for architects/engineers. He’d done it successfully in Salt Lake City. But he quickly found a drastic difference with the locals. The Utah folks earnest, straight forward, and basically, nice. The Arizona folks (Scottsdale), commonly transplants from all over the world. Ronnie encountered Scandinavians, Brits, New Yorkers, various Latinx mixes, cowboys, Native Americans, etc.. These people tended quite a bit less collective-minded and a lot more individualist. To the point of straight-up criminality. A couple examples occurred before the office was even furnished. To start, the firm’s designated office manager had two laptops stolen from him, one of those from the hotel room he was temporarily housed in, the other from the yet unfinished office.

The second example, and though not proven, was a suspected inside job where the still unfinished office was broken into with two flat-screen videoconferencing display panels lifted along with various other office supplies of relative value. One of the newly employed engineers had a boyfriend in the AV business. But hey! She wouldn’t dream of allowing her boyfriend to do something so brazenly felonious to her new employer, right? Well, the case went unsolved, and when the authorities were asked if they had any leads in the theft… the response was like a scene from the Big Lebowski…

Yea… they got us working in shifts.

This was just in the beginning phases. As time went by, it became apparent some of the project workers were using the firm’s resources to enrich themselves at the expense of the firm, demonstrating a pirate’s level of corporate loyalty. Needless to say, this was not Ronnie’s finest hour.

Anyway, Arizona, a land where the sun beats down like a vengeful deity and cacti stand guard like prickly sentinels. It’s a place where the Grand Canyon yawns like a cosmic chasm, a testament to the Earth’s ancient whimsy. But the beauty and awe-inspiring grandeur is only one side of the coin. This state is a microcosm of human endeavor, a place of both wonder and woe.

Imagine Flagstaff, a city where the air is so crisp it could shatter glass. Then picture Phoenix, a sprawling metropolis where the heat shimmers like a mirage. It’s like comparing a snow-capped mountain to a fiery furnace. Arizona is a land of extremes, a place where the delicate balance of nature is constantly being tested.

For the adventurous soul, Arizona is a playground. Hike through the canyons, fish in the rivers, or simply bask in the sun. But be warned, the desert can be unforgiving. It’s a place where the line between beauty and danger is often blurred.

As for the finer things in life, Arizona has plenty to offer. Colleges abound, their campuses a mix of ancient wisdom and modern innovation. Literary landmarks dot the landscape, each one a testament to the human spirit’s ability to find beauty in the most unexpected places.

But let’s not kid ourselves. Arizona is not without its flaws. The weather can be as unpredictable as a pirate’s mood. Water is a precious commodity, and crime lurks in the shadows. Traffic can be as snarled as a ship in a storm. And let’s not forget the ever-rising cost of living, which can make even the most hardened adventurer’s wallet weep.

Arizona is home to stunning landscapes, including the aforementioned Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, and the Sonoran Desert, a variety of ecosystems, from alpine forests to cactus-filled deserts. If there was ever an example of contrasts, Arizona has it. There’s a stark difference between the environment of Flagstaff (where we are composing this post) and Phoenix/Scottsdale, where the abovementioned pirate raiders reside.

As you can imagine, Arizona can be a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, such as hiking, camping, fishing, and rock climbing. The state’s mild winters make it a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts. Visiting Scottsdale in December was always a bright spot for Ronnie, when he wasn’t scrambling to retrofit an office recently burgled.

So, is Arizona worth it? Well, that depends on your tolerance for extremes. If you’re the type of person who thrives on adventure, beauty, and a touch of chaos, then Arizona might just be the place for you. Just be prepared for the unexpected. And maybe, just maybe, invest in a good security system.

Onward through the fog… R.H.

If you seek…
A land of contrasts…
Arizona…
Fills your rucksack…
And don’t you worry…
Nothing’s wasted…
Someone will find it…
While you’re gone.

Below the Earth: Above the Rain

So, there we have it: Hot Springs or Busk, Phase III, all wrapped up. A whirlwind tour that took us from the Pacific Northwest, down the Pacific Coast, through the desert mirage of Vegas, the Grand Canyon’s awe-inspiring chasm, the quirky artist haven of New Mexico, and finally, the sprawling landscapes of Texas and Oklahoma. Quite a journey, indeed (stay tuned, new posts drop every Monday@Midnight).

Madrid, NM:
https://images.app.goo.gl/biLgPfqiregn7bwM9

Initially, i’d planned to delve deeper into Texas and Oklahoma, but a confluence of events and a growing sense of alienation pulled me back to Hays, my so-called “home port”. As Thomas Wolfe famously observed, “You can’t go home again,” and i’m experiencing that firsthand. Hays was once my professional and familial anchor, but now, with my kids grown and gone, i find myself adrift. Even long-standing friends seem increasingly distant with every homecoming. I am still welcome, as long as i stay in the shadows and don’t rock anyone’s boat. As Mr. Spock might say… “fascinating”.

As for the song inspired by this post-mortem, i’m still working on it. So far, i’m only settled on the title and a mental image. Perhaps the lyrics will come as i finish this blog post (see developing lyric below).

So, what’s next? Phase IV will take us from Savannah up the coastal Southeast, from Florida to Maine. Winter? Please, no. My mantra is “screw winter,” and Savannah will be my home base for the colder months. We’ll explore the Deep South before tackling the East Coast in late spring. This time, though, we won’t be rushing. We’re way ahead of schedule, with 26 states already covered. We have until mid-June to hit them all.

I’m also hoping to find a guitar teacher to help me take my acoustic blues chops up a notch or two. It’ll keep me busy and give me something to focus on while parked in my sister’s backyard by the pond. We’ll plan some trips and adventures, but my primary goal is to hone guitar skills and write songs. We’ll try to arrange a showcase in Austin to launch Ronnie’s 2nd life as a solo performer. It’s a different path than i’ve taken before, but as Henley and Frey once said, it’s all about “song power.” If i can find my creative bullseye and develop a consistent level of performance excellence, there’s a chance to make it happen… what’s Nike say about that…? “Just Do It?”

Yea… let’s.

Onward through the fog… Ron, Rohlfie, and Ronnie Hays

Above the Rain
Set a course…
Prairies and pines…
Into the wind…
Expand your mind…
Upon return…
You’ll find your home…
Is movin’ on…
As par it should.

Below the Earth…
Above the rain…
Find your way…
It’s all the same…
Just a ride…
And you’ll abide…
Flyin’ high…
Above the rain.

No one’s really known…
We all have secret places…
Gardens that are grown…
From mulch of broken dreams…
Struggle with the good and bad…
Mourn the life we once had…
Reaching for a ring we cannot see.

And still…
Free will…
Won’t fill…
The aching need.

She set a course…
To calibrate…
Five lives down…
Down to fate…
And still she hopes…
She’ll find a home…
Down the road…
So it goes.

Below the Earth…
Above the rain…
She’ll find her way…
It’s all the same…
It’s just a ride…
And she’ll abide…
Flyin’ high…
Above the rain.

This Land: Nevada

As with several US Western states, Ronnie has some history with Nevada. Namely, Los Vegas. In his professional life, Ronnie was spirited to Emerald City of the Desert more times than he cares to count. If you get a chance to visit him in whatever hovel he ends up settling into, ask to see his collection of convention lanyards. It’s a truly impressive mountain of necklaces and nametags. As well, there was a trip to Tahoe way back in the deep dark recesses of his memory. Not sure who or what occasion it happened to be. Probably that choir tour in the early 1980s, but there was a stayover in a lakeside cabin and he has memories of a massive crystalline lake. No, these images aren’t from the Godfather series, Ronnie actually visited Lake Tahoe… stop laughing.

SIDE NOTE: That Emerald City image is kinda funny juxtaposed with the whole “i don’t think we’re in Kansas anymore, Rocinante” vibe… yea… hilarious. Wipe that grin off yo digital pixels.

Here’s the funniest part of Ronnie’s history with Vegas. Upon his first visit, he couldn’t wait to hear the jingle jangle of hitting jackpot playing quarter slots. So, the first bank of machines he encountered, he dove in with a vengeance, figuring he could win displaying an overwhelming show of force on a single machine. $200 later, he internalized some conventional wisdom… “the house always wins!” He looked around, noticing how much investment had to go into making such a gawdy display of excess. And since this was back in the days of cheap meals and endless cocktail bar attention, he could eat and drink on the cheap as long as he still had coins to feed the beast. Calculating the booty was depressing. The few beers he drank amounted to maybe $15 retail, the meal was basically attained for the bare-minimum food cost… near break-even. And what did Ronnie pay for this paltry haul? $200 in rolled up quarters? Needless to say, he never gambled in Vegas again. Well… one other time. Once, there was an occasion where he had some time to kill before turning in on his last night in the new Aria Hotel, Ronnie calculated how much three beers would cost in a club, and resolved not to spend a dime more. This time he was able to play the quarter slots four hours for the cost of those three beers.

Aria Resort and Casino, Las Vegas, Nevada.

Walking the strip, or lapping casino floors was Ronnie’s favorite method for getting his daily steps, and the thing that sticks out most in his recollections were all of the “escort” solicitors with their calling cards. They would try to get his attention flicking the cards in his face… hilarious… and those guys had awful memories. It took two or three rejections for them to remember Ronnie wasn’t interested in what they were selling. Sin city? Ya, right. Ronnie’s assessment of the changes Vegas had made between the golden “Fear and Loathing” days and most of Ronnie’s trips between the years of our lord 2010 to the 2019/20 pandemic was this:

Vegas morphed from “Sin City” to “Disneyland for Adults”.

Anyway, Nevada is known for the aforementioned gambling and expansive desert landscapes, offering a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural attractions, and showbiz entertainment. And the good news for our HSoB tour, Nevada has Hot Springs aplenty, boasting several naturally heated springs, many of which are accessible to the public. Some popular options include the Travertine Hot Springs on the California border and Ash Springs in Lincoln County.

Nevada has it’s own version of stark natural landscapes, including the Great Basin National Park, Lake Tahoe, and the Valley of Fire State Park. These areas offer stunning scenery, hiking trails, and opportunities for outdoor recreation.

And they’ve got the learning centers, too. Several small to medium-sized colleges and universities, such as the University of Nevada, Reno, and the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. These institutions provide a range of academic programs and opportunities for students.

And what about the literary landmarks? While not as renowned as some other states, Nevada has its share of literary landmarks. Mark Twain, for example, spent time in Virginia City and Carson City during the silver boom.

The Good, Bad, and Ugly: The good? Nevada is often praised for its low taxes, business-friendly environment, and vibrant entertainment scene. The state’s diverse landscapes, including the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and the Lake Tahoe Basin, also attract visitors and residents alike. The bad and the ugly? Some of the challenges facing Nevada include the arid climate, limited water resources, and rapid population growth in certain areas. Additionally, the state has faced issues related to gambling addiction and the social consequences associated with the gaming industry.

Where to go in Nevada for some quality recreation time? Lake Tahoe… widely regarded as one of Nevada’s most stunning natural attractions, Lake Tahoe is a massive alpine lake known for its crystal-clear waters, scenic beauty, and year-round recreational activities.

Who’s Who from Nevada? As mentioned earlier, Mark Twain spent time in Nevada during the silver boom and drew inspiration from his experiences here for his writings. Sarah Winnemucca, a Paiute Native American leader, Sarah Winnemucca advocated for her people’s rights and worked to preserve their culture. Known as “Mr. Las Vegas,” Wayne Newton is a legendary entertainer who has performed countless shows in the city for decades.

Nevada offers a unique blend of natural beauty, urban excitement, and cultural experiences. Whether you’re interested in exploring the great outdoors, experiencing the thrill of gambling, or immersing yourself in the state’s history and culture, Nevada has something to offer everyone.

Onward through the fog… R.H.

Bring your abacus…
When you visit Vegas…
If you’re not careful…
You’ll lose you anus…
Maybe punt…
Rent a Tahoe cabin…
Either way, you’ll leave…
Your treasure here.

This Land: SoCal

Okay, folks, let’s dive back into the Golden State. As we discovered last week, California is too vast to tackle in a single post. So, after exploring the northern reaches, it’s time to turn our attention to Southern California.

Now, Ronnie has a bit of experience with the major metropolitan areas of Los Angeles, San Diego, and San Francisco. Not exactly a seasoned pro, but he’s done his fair share of touristing. In San Diego, he joined his brother for a reunion after his naval stint on the USS Blueridge. The entire family made the trek to Sandog for the reunion and a wedding in nearby Bullhead City, Arizona, via Vegas. Talk about a whirlwind!

In Los Angeles and San Francisco, Ronnie and his university choir embarked on a tour, serenading various churches with a repertoire ranging from the ridiculous to the sublime. And now, on this HSoB tour, do you think he’s eager to brave the notorious traffic jams and revisit these urban behemoths? Hell to the no! But in the name of this chronicle, he did venture close to LA via Santa Barbara and Moorpark. Just a few years ago, he also spent a week in the Berkeley area, hopping on the BART to explore every nook and cranny of that stunningly beautiful, yet deeply troubled city.

As you can see, our experience is limited, and California is so vast that we can only offer snapshots, digital snapshots.

In our previous post, we highlighted some of the best that Northern California has to offer. Now, it’s time to balance that with the not-so-great. Let’s start with the reason Texas and Colorado are overrun with Californians: the sky-high cost of living. California boasts some of the highest living expenses in the United States, especially in major cities like Los Angeles and San Francisco. Then there’s the constant threat of natural disasters. Earthquakes, wildfires, and droughts are all part of the package. While locals might shrug off the frequent tremors, wildfires and mudslides can be downright terrifying, depending on where you live. And just like Seattle and Portland, California’s urban centers are plagued by traffic congestion and mind-numbingly long commutes. As a direct result of the high cost of living, housing affordability is a major issue. Home prices in California are among the highest in the nation, making it difficult for many people to own a home. No wonder so many Californians are fleeing to Texas and Colorado.

Enough about the bad and the ugly. Let’s talk about the good stuff. Yosemite National Park is an iconic destination, widely regarded as one of the most beautiful places on Earth. Its towering granite cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and ancient sequoia trees are simply breathtaking. California is also the birthplace of the film industry, producing countless famous actors, directors, and producers. Not to be outdone, Silicon Valley in Northern California is home to many of the world’s most influential technology companies and their visionary founders. And of course, California has a long history of attracting writers, musicians, and artists, who have enriched the state’s cultural landscape.

As we write this, we’re in inland Southern California, in a town called Bakersfield. Country music enthusiasts will recognize the significance of Bakersfield, which became a hub of the country music scene after World War II. It gave birth to legendary figures like Buck Owens and Merle Haggard, and their legacy continues to influence artists like Dwight Yoakam. This is a special place. Now, Ronnie has something to say. He points out that the Bakersfield of Merle Haggard’s heyday is long gone, replaced by a sprawling, big-small town with all the associated challenges and opportunities. We won’t go into specifics, but let’s just say the range is vast, from the ridiculous to the sublime, but with a predominantly working-class vibe and a fair share of fallen souls.

These are just a few of the many factors that make California a unique and diverse state. It is a land of stunning natural beauty, economic opportunity, and cultural richness, but it also faces challenges.

Be well…
Be safe…
Good luck…
Pay it forward… R.H.

From Nor to SoCal…
The range is royale…
From Santa Barbara…
To Monterey…
From Bakersfield…
To Eureka Beach…
California IS America!

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This Land – Alabama

This Land: Georgia

This Land: Arkansas

This Land: Oklahoma

This Land: New Mexico

This Land: Arizona

Below the Earth: Above the Rain

This Land: Nevada

This Land: SoCal